From dress to casual wear, ” slacks ” are the bottoms with a neat adult look that are indispensable for creating beautiful coordinates on and off the job. Slacks, which come standard with a tailored, dressy look, can be worn not only with jackets, but also with casual outfits with shirts and T-shirts. In this issue, we focus on ” slacks ” and introduce how to choose the right ones, as well as the hottest outfits and items to look out for!
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What are slacks?
The word “slacks” conjures up images of slim, dressy suit pants, but the word “slacks,” named after the American English word “slack,” originally referred to all casual pants with room to spare, excluding work clothes and jeans. In the U.S., the term was used to refer to pants other than suits, but today it is used to refer to semi-formal pants. The same is true in Japan, where pants that come with suits and dressy pants are called “slacks.
Incidentally, the British English word “trousers” is often used as a synonym, but it has a more dressy image than slacks. In English-speaking countries, dress pants are basically called trousers, so it is smart to distinguish between slacks and trousers when shopping overseas.
Here are six points men should pay attention to when selecting slacks!
There are many points to consider when choosing slacks, such as size, silhouette, and design details. Here we pick up the recommended points to pay attention to first for men who are having trouble choosing slacks!
(1) “The silhouette greatly influences the impression of the coordination!
The first thing to pay attention to in slacks is the silhouette. Here, we will explain the points that can be used as a reference for selecting slacks from two perspectives: “the royal road” and “the trend!
The “tapered silhouette” is the most popular choice!
The most basic slacks today are those with a tapered silhouette that has a moderate amount of room around the waist and narrows toward the hem. The most common style is one that naturally tapers toward the ankle along the leg line, as if to take advantage of the body’s proportions. Another point that cannot be overlooked is that the width of slacks in the mainstream today is around 18 cm, which is slightly narrower than the width of the standard slacks. Modern silhouette slacks with plenty of room in the crotch while maintaining a moderately smart atmosphere at the leg should be owned as a regular item that can be used both on and off the job.
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Wide slacks” are the main choice from a trend point of view!
If you are choosing slacks from a trendy point of view, you should go for wide silhouettes with a deep crotch, a loose waist, and a silhouette that falls down to the feet. The silhouette of the pants is close to what fashionable people think is the current mood. Or, if you prefer the city boy fashion of the season, with its traditional style sublimated into an oversized, modern style, the Pied Stem chinos may be right up your alley. In any case, while tastes may differ, the common silhouette of pants is wide, which is attracting attention.
(2) Key point in selecting slacks: “Pay attention to the tucks and pleats that are the face of the slacks!
Next to the silhouette, tucks and pleats are the most important details that determine the look of slacks. It is interesting to note that trends in the presence or absence and number of pleats vary depending on the era. It is not necessary to follow the trend, but one pleat can make a big difference in the impression, so why not be aware of the presence or absence of pleats when choosing slacks? The following is an introduction to the characteristics and appeal of each of the three types of pleats: “no pleats,” “two pleats/two-tuck,” and “one pleat.”
No-pleats,” which were the mainstream in the 2000s, are characterized by their stylish appearance.
No-pleats” refers to pants without pleats. Many people are familiar with no-pleat slacks, as slim, no-pleat pants were the norm in the business world during the first 10 years of the 2000s. In the past few years, pleated slacks have been the norm, but with Y2K fashion beginning to attract attention in recent years, the boom may be rekindled.
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For a classic look, “two-tuck” is the way to go!
Pleats (tucks) are a trend that create a relaxed waist. This is a detail that adds visual flair to the garment while allowing for playful movement by adding folds around the waist. Two such details, one on each side of the front, are called “two-tuck/two pleats. With the current trend to return to the classics, it is no exaggeration to say that almost all trend-conscious pants incorporate this detail.
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When in doubt, go for the well-balanced “one pleat” look.
For those who can’t decide between two pleats or no-pleat pants, a pair of slacks with one pleat and just the right amount of room will be the right choice. The silhouette is somewhere between smart and loose, and will fit easily to your body, giving you a stylish and trend-conscious look.
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Trivia that makes the difference: What is the difference between tucks and pleats?
You may have seen the terms “tucked pants” and “pleated pants” in stores, magazines, and on social networking sites. Many people are at a loss to answer when asked the difference between “tucked pants” and “pleated pants,” even though they usually just see them and pass them by. Basically, pleats and tucks are called by the following judgment. If you keep this in mind, you should be able to respond smartly when store staff uses technical terms.
Pleats: a straight crease in the fabric from top to bottom.
・Tucks: a line of pleats that is erased in the middle.
Actually, the pleats of slacks are called differently depending on their orientation!
Incidentally, the direction of pleats is also important. The in-pleat (forward pleat), in which the pleats are facing inward, is considered a classic English detail. In Italy, out-pleats (reverse pleats) are more common, and are said to give a more casual look. It is recommended to use different types depending on the occasion and style.
[ Related article ] Special feature on men’s pleated pants coordination! Introducing stylish and stylish outfits and items with a mature and comfortable feel.
(3) “If it is classic, go beltless. But if you need a belt for business occasions, go for one with belt loops!”
If you want to adopt a classic style, beltless is one option that you cannot miss. To begin with, belt loops are a detail that originated in the 1920s and have a short history in the history of clothing and were used in work clothes and military uniforms. The world’s first jeans “501” developed by Levi’s also did not have belt loops, and the early models were hung with suspenders. Therefore, the beltless version is the most classic, and it is considered legitimate to suspend the pants with suspenders and adjust them with side adjusters at the waist.
However, a belt is one of the indispensable items in the business scene. Without a belt, the suit style is not tight and can look somewhat sloppy. Therefore, in today’s business scene, it is better to wear a belt when you have an important meeting, presentation, or conference, which requires a neat and tight outfit. Incidentally, it is considered common not to wear a belt when wearing a three-piece suit in situations where formal attire is required, so it is best to choose whether or not to wear a belt depending on the type of suit as well as the occasion.
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[ Related article] A belt suitable for a suit style is a necessity for men! Introducing items that are suitable for both business and everyday use ↓
(4) “Choose fabrics and patterns that suit the occasion and the season.
No matter how particular you are about the silhouette and details, if the fabric is not used in accordance with the season, you will not feel like wearing them, not to mention that they will look out of place in a coordinated outfit. Fabrics that are comfortable in all seasons, such as Loro Piana’s “Four Seasons” and Dormer’s “Amadeus 365,” are of course fine, but if you want to add a sense of fashion to your coordination However, if you want to add a sense of fashion to your coordination, it is also hard to abandon the option of creating a sense of the season. For spring and summer, use lightweight fabrics such as cotton, linen and summer wool. For fall and winter, fabrics with a raised and heavy feel, such as flannel, saxony, and tweed, can be chosen to create a sense of the season.
| Main fabrics for spring and summer | Main fabrics for fall and winter |
| Cotton twill | Flannel |
| Linen | Saxony |
| Mohair | Tweed |
| Seersucker | Corduroy |
| Tropical Wool | Cavallier Twill |
| Fresco | Velvet |
| Crepe | Doskin |
| Cord Lane | Velour |
For those who travel frequently, slacks made of wrinkle-resistant fabrics such as Zegna’s “Traveler” are recommended. Models made of polyester, nylon, and other synthetic fibers with stretchability, wrinkle resistance, and washability are also good.
[ Related article ] Special feature on how to wear summer suits! Introducing everything from how to choose fabrics and colors to trends, hot men’s coordinates, and recommended brands.
Points to consider when selecting slacks (5) “Choose a hem finish that suits the occasion! Single vs. double.”
The hems of tails, tuxedos, and morning trousers, which are known as traditional formal wear, generally do not have a folded hem. Therefore, single pants are more formal, while double pants are more sporty. Double trousers are taboo for ceremonial occasions such as weddings and funerals, but in business situations, there is no problem in choosing either single or double trousers. The basic width of double slacks is 3.5 to 4 cm, and if they are too thick, they may look too casual.
[ Related article ] Which do you choose when hemming slacks? Double vs. Single]
(6) “The royal road is still a brand specializing in pants!
It is none other than Italy’s proud pants specialty brands that have created the trend of returning to the classics that has continued for several years. They interpret classic British details in a modern Italian way, and are particular about even the fabrics. If you are looking for trend-conscious slacks, why not check out a brand specializing in pants that takes the royal road?
INCOTEX,” Italy’s most prestigious brand specializing in pants
INCOTEX” is a pants brand founded in Venice, Italy in 1951. It started as a factory with about 20 employees, but its products made from high quality materials and craftsmen’s skillful sewing techniques were highly evaluated. The high quality and reliability of its products have earned it a reputation for producing pants for world-renowned brands such as Burberry and Prada in the past. The company boasts a refined and beautiful leg silhouette and outstanding comfort thanks to carefully selected materials and advanced cutting and sewing techniques. Many models, such as the “N35,” which incorporates details to accommodate the Japanese, and the “N24,” an evolved version of the N35 with pleats, have received high acclaim.
PT TORINO,” a brand specializing in pants, is handled by Domenico Gianfurrate.
PT TORINO” was established in Torino, Italy in 2008. Although it has a shorter history than other brands specializing in pants, it has gained an unshakeable position as an Italian pants brand. The brand is also famous for its director, Domenico Gianfurrate, who is a regular contributor to men’s fashion snapshots. Under the concept that “pants are the most important item in men’s clothing,” the pants are a true gem, the result of technology and know-how. The “TRAVELLER,” a standard model, and “THE DRAPER,” a new classic with modern interpretations of classic details and silhouettes, are popular. These pants are popular not only for everyday use, but also as business pants. The versatility of these pants, which can be used not only for everyday wear but also as business pants, is another reason why men are attracted to them.
GTA” is a brand specializing in pants with a reputation for beautiful silhouettes.
GTA” was founded in 1955 in Servazzano, Italy, and is known as a factory specializing in pants. In Japan, GTA is as well known and popular as INCOTEX and PT01, and has a reputation for comfort and the beauty of its lines. GTA is known for its manufacturing with attention to detail, using expressive and colorful fabrics and silhouettes with beautiful legs, buttocks, and leg-lengthening effects, which it has cultivated through years of making dress pants. The wide range of choices is also a pleasure, including the very popular “BAYRON” with one pleat, and the classically designed “HERRIK” with two pleats and belt-less design.
ROTA,” a serious brand specializing in pants, wows the connoisseurs with its attention to detail.
A brand specializing in pants established in Parma, Italy in 1962. The brand has gained the support of fashion experts around the world for its serious pants production that focuses on details that ordinary brands cannot incorporate. For example, the buttons used in all parts of the pants are nut buttons, and the hems of the pants are reinforced with fabric to enhance their robustness. The universal lines and elegant atmosphere of these pants, which are distinctly different from the current mainstream, are very attractive, and they represent Classico Italia.
BERWICH” is a specialized pants brand that produces slacks with a playful Italian flavor.
ICOMAN 2000 s.r.l., which was founded in 1975 in Martinafranca, Puglia, Italy, as a specialized pants company, launched its original pants brand “BERWICH” in 2004. The brand offers many models with a tapered, modern silhouette. The brand is 100% made in Italy, even down to the parts, and has garnered support for its manufacturing that incorporates playful details. There are many highly popular models such as “PIERO,” which has a classical atmosphere and a form that incorporates modern moods, and “RAFFI,” which has a fluid tapered silhouette.
For more information on Italian pants brands, check out this article:
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